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Visiting Florence one cannot help but cross, re-cross, walk and walk again along the banks of the River Arno which cuts through the centre of the city. Having crossed or walked along it daily, I found myself constantly shooting pictures of the River, its banks and bridges—it was constantly mesmerizing….there were days when I simply sat by the river, glass of wine in hand or leaned for hours on the river walls spellbound by the interplay of river, buildings and light.

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It is clearly central to the identity of Florence.

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Since ancient times, the Arno river has been the transit route between the mouth of the sea and the Apennines when wood was needed for architectural works. It is 241 kilometers long. Over time the Arno greatly influenced the economic development of Florence. However drought and periods of low water reduced its navigability and with the construction of railroads in the 19th century, it was no longer a commercial transit route.

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Almost immediately one notices there are no tour boats, no water taxis or commercial craft. The only boats I saw were the local rowing club members out for their sculling practices. I very calming form of boat traffic. One Sunday I was entertained by a two teams of 6 players in kayaks that seemed to play a sort of waterpolo / waterbasketball at the rowing club just below the Ponte Vecchio.

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Even though the river is often low and calm, it has flooded. The worst in the history of the city since the flood of 1557 was the 1966 Flood. It had a lasting impact on Florence. 5000 families were left homeless and 6000 stores were forced out of business. Immeasurable damage was done to the art and the ancient book collections in the city. People from around the world, including experts (named by Florentines subsequently as MUD ANGELS) came voluntarily to help clean the city and retrieve the works of art and books. Restoration efforts continue even today. In 1984 a dam was built and the river banks were raised to protect the city from future disasters.

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The Ponte Vecchio ‘Old Bridge’ is possibly the most well known and most photographed of the bridges. Oltrarno or ‘other Arno’, meaning the other side of the Arno, is the neighborhood across the river. A wonderful area, in which you will find the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens. I spent 2 weeks in a loft apartment in Oltrarno and loved this neighborhood. It is the home of many students and working Florentines.
The Ponte Vecchio was, until 1218, the only bridge across the Arno in Florence. In World War II, it was the only bridge not destroyed. It withstood the weight of the tons of water and silt when the Arno burst its banks in 1966.

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While today goldsmith shops are housed in every nook and cranny of the bridge, the shops were owned by butchers in the 13th -15th centuries. As the Pitti Palace was ‘oltrarno’ they had to use the bridge to get into central Florence. The noble Medici did not like walking amongst the lower society nor the smell of the meat cutters,they built a corridor above the shops as their personal passage to the Palace—the Corridoio Vasariano. The original butchers, fishmongers and tanners were banned in the 16th century (probably due to the rank smell that accompany these businesses) by Ferdinand I. He decreed only goldsmiths and jewelers could have stores on the bridge.

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As you can see from my photos ( and I took many more) I loved taking a passeggiata (stroll) along the rivers and across the bridges. Ponte Santa Trinita lay at the bottom of my road, a stones through from my loft apartment. It led straight to the Ferragamo and best gelato shop across the river.

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You will see from many of the river and bridge pictures, that the other element which fascinated me was the amazing skies in Florence. I read ( can’t remember where I picked this up) “ Italy celebrates an endless vocabulary of light on landscape that change from morning to evening, north to south and season to season. The luminous vistas recorded by Leornardi da Vinci in his paintings can still be seen when travelling any Tuscan Road”.

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Certainly I was constantly drawn to take photos of the skies. I hope you enjoy the pictures….they will long be a wonderful memory for me.

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I am always attracted to green spaces…I love walking the belt line in Toronto, hiking in the Rockies, golfing as much to hit the ball, as to take in the scenery. It is no different in cities. I always seek out the parks and gardens.
Initially walking the streets of Florence is was not easy to see a lot of green..narrow streets with high walls, but I soon discovered that the city blocks of high walls held hidden gardens…most of which regrettably were private. With front green gardens not being a norm in Florence, I checked out the Florence city map and indeed found green slices for exploration.
062The first of these was close to my first Florence apartment and I found I was skirting this large green space without my knowledge as I made my way to the old city. The map indicated it was Giardino Della Gherardesca…but as is typical in Florence it was surrounded by walls or homes. At 4.5 hectares it is one of the largest private gardens in the city and has been in existence since the 15th century…and like most things of value was owned at one time by the Medici family. Constanza de Medici married Count Guido Alberto della Gherardesca hence the name. I discovered walking the block where the map indicated the garden was located, it was flanked on two sides by entrances to the Four Season’s Hotel… and so I had my entrance.
Years ago, traveling with my friend Mary in Paris she shared with me a great traveling tip. In the great cities of the world, research the famed hotels, dress up and of a late afternoon, stroll in, make your way to the bar, and experience some of the best cocktails and wines in the most beautiful bars of the world and simply enjoy!!! the surroundings, the drinks and the people. So that is what I did in Florence.

The Four Seasons

The Four Seasons

Of a late Sunday afternoon I strolled into the Four Seasons and asked to be shown to the garden bar.
It was delightful!! First of all the terrace, the impeccable service and to my delight the garden was filled with art!!! All in all a priceless day, a lovely glass of wine and the experience of a beautiful garden museum.

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068I also got a glimpse of the beautiful hotel… a 15th century palazzo and a 16th century convent beautifully restored over seven years—original frescoes, bas reliefs and stuccos. Stunning!!!!!

Boboli and Pitti Palace

Boboli and Pitti Palace

The second garden is the famous Boboli gardens—a park behind the Medici’s Pitti Palace.

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Boboli

Entrance to the Pitti Palace includes entrance to the Boboli. It is 111 acres!!! In Medici times it was for the exclusive use of the Medici family—no entertainment or parties ever took place in it. A shame for as far as I am concerned, it would have been an amazing venue for a grand event.

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The Boboli were laid out for Eleonora di Toledo, the wife of Cosimo I de Medici. The gardens had no natural water source, so a conduit was built from the nearby Arno to feed water into an elaborate irrigation system.

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Even today the gardens are elaborate. I can only imagine what they must have been like in the Medici times. Statuary, an Egyptian obelisk, an ampitheatre, a hippodrome—a classical race course, garden temples, an orangery, fountains, Neptune, the Grotto of Vulcan and Bacchus.

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Vulcan Grotto

Vulcan Grotto

Bacchus

Bacchus

The Boboli Gardens are situated on a rise over theFlorence so in addition to the gorgeous park surroundings one gets an amazing view out over the city of Florence.140

Both these gardens were definitely worth the hours spent wandering through them.

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The Last Garden I want to introduce you to is Giardino Incantanto ( Garden in Bloom). This was the name of the second apartment I rented in Italy. Just outside of Firenze ( a mere 10 minute bus ride into town) near Imprunetta, this lovely Tuscan home was surrounded by an amazing garden, the love of Fiametta, mother of Lorenzo my host. I spent 3 weeks in Giardino Incantanto a marvelous airbnb location.
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The house was beautiful and large enough to host family and friends. I welcomed my daughter, my sister and brother in law, friends and cousins ..all of whom marveled at this beautiful space. We enjoyed it with coffee in the mornings and with wine in the evenings. It soon became the most photographed garden in Tuscany!!!

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Cinque Terre, five small fishing villages hugging the rugged coastline of Italy in the province of Liguria. The villages, Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.

Prior to his arrival, my brother in law had seen pictures of these distinctive colourful villages, asking if they were near Florence and could they possibly be a destination. Knowing the villages are not accessible by car, we took a full day Florence Walkabout Tour to the area. It turned out to be a great day.  We started off by hiking from the top of the hillside to the first village, and thereafter traveled between them via train or boat. It was a great day.

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The villages historically ( they date back to the 11th century ) were fishing villages, largely accessible only by boat. Train travel was introduced in the 19th century.

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The homes are very colourful as you can see from the photos. They were painted in varied bright colours so that the fishermen could see their homes while offshore. Our guide Freddie informed us that the village councils today make the decision about the colour each home is to be painted.491480

The countryside surrounding the villlages are heavily terraced, indicative of the second source of income for the villages, the growing of grapes for wine and olives for olive oil.

445Annette and I took it upon ourselves to do a tasting of the wines produced in each of the five villages. If truth be told it wasn’t our favorite wine in Italy

Gelato in the village of Corniglia is made of local honey—that we did like.

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Italy’s Ministry of the Environment established this incredible set of villages, and surrounding country and marine area as a protected natural environment  Parco Nationale delle Cinque Terre.

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Dramatic coastline and colourful villages crawling up the coastline, definitely worth the trip.497

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Monterossa

Ferragamo Flagship Store and Museum in the Palazzo Spini Feroni

Ferragamo Flagship Store and Museum in the Palazzo Spini Feroni

One cannot come to Florence and not be intrigued by one of its more recent artists. Salvatore Ferragamo. For indeed to many women around the world to walk in one of his creations is divine. Perhaps I will purchase my first ever Ferragamo’s at his flagship store here at the Palazzo Spini Feroni. I have visited this beautiful store several times and participated in the purchase of a pair of beautiful oxblood red heels by a friend who came to visit.  The Ferragamo family purchased the palazzo in the 1930′s and a museum to Ferragamo is housed below the store.

Salvatore Ferragamo was born in 1898 in Bonito Italy ( near Naples). He made his first pair of shoes for his sister’s confirmation at the age of nine. Clearly he found his calling early. He studied shoe making in Naples, opened his first store in his parents basement, then emigrated to Boston where he initially worked in a cowboy boot factory. He moved to Santa Barbara in California and became known to celebrities as he opened a repair and made to measure shoe store. His reputation grew as he became ‘the shoemaker to the stars”.

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318316317My visit to his museum in Florence can attest to his reputation. The pictures enclosed show the many wooden shoe lasts of the ‘stars’ for whom he created shoes Ava Gardner, Sophia Loren, Rita Hayworth,  Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Judy Garland, Mary Pickford ( who seems to have had tiny, tiny feet).

Farragamo was however not simply happy with creating shoes. He wanted to develop a shoe that was both beautiful and comfortable to wear. Consequently he undertook the study of anatomy at the University of Southern California.

Each foot has 26 bones and each has 2 sesamoid for a total of 56 joints and hinges. The foot is an ensemble of arches in tension and compression—it is the most complex dynamic in the whole body–a remarkable example of equilibrium in nature.

314313311310As he studied the foot, Ferragamo began to test his theories about weight distribution and the human skeleton. He discovered that by measuring feet while flat, shoes were being designed that supported the heel and ball only. But human feet when wearing heels, need arch support. Ferragamo began building steel arch support into his shoes and his customers were soon telling him not only did he create beautiful shoes, but also the most comfortable they had ever worn.

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He also moved from custom made to developing factory made models aligned with his designs and arch support. The beginnings of a shoe empire!! His writings indicate that he explored the importance of balance.

328This is the subject of the current exhibit “Equilibrium” at the Ferragamo museum. The exhibit,like Ferragamo, explores the importance of equilibrium/balance. It covers different perspectives on the idea of balance with contributions from historians and experts from the world of art, film, dance, paleontology and philosophy. It is a fascinating exhibition!!! I loved the divers artworks from painting, sculpture, photograhpy, video and film, from classic to current. The notion of ‘balance’ is explored in videos of a tightrope walker , Philippe Petit, a mountain climber, Reinhold Messner, and depicted in film in the evolution of Charlie Chaplin’s famous walk.

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While small and concise the exhibit gave me several hours of delight….and probably a most memorable moment in Florence. I was in the small theatre listening to Philippe Petitte, the tight rope walker, when I heard dutch being spoken. Hearing my mother tongue always pulls me and i glanced out the theatre door to see the fellow dutch museum goers. I looked initially in disbelief but soon realized that the woman, I was by now staring at, was the former queen of Holland Princess Beatrix. For those of you whom may wonder, that is how she is now known in Holland, Queen Mother is not how they address her. The same beautiful woman I had watched just over a year ago when she handed her crown to her son King Willem-Alexander while i was living in Amsterdam. Princess Beatrix was touring the exhibit with two women friends.  She was clearly quite familiar with the exhibit as she explained several features to her friends. Yes of course , I exited the theatre and discreetly stood in the vicinity of her and her guests. There were very few people in the exhibit so it was not difficult to do. While I would have loved to say hello, it was clear she was there in no formal capacity and I did not want to intrude on her as private person and also refrained from taking any pictures.. I saw no form of security at all, simply Princess Beatrix and her friends taking in an afternoon in a museum. Perhaps she had just purchased her next pair of shoes in the store above—clearly Ferragamo still fits royalty. It was quite the thrill i can tell you!!!

Now back to Ferragamo….

After spending 13 years in California he returned to Italy–to Florence and began to fashion his shoes for the most powerful and wealthiest women who flocked to his store–and clearly given Princess Beatrix’s presence, they still do. He became intimate with the feet of his clients. The museum has many pictures and films showing him holding his clients feet, examining them and understanding their uniqueness. He experimented with various shoe designs and is known for his shoe patents  (ornamental and utility)Ferragamo died at the age of 62 in 1960. His wife Wanda,barely 40 and with no prior business experience,  and later their six children ran the company. Ferragamo met Wanda who was 22 years his junior on his return to Italy. During his time in America, Ferragamo had sent money back to his home town of Bonito. A doctor from his home town suggested he visit and see all the good his donations had done. He did and met  the doctors 19 year old daughter and as the story goes immediately knew he would marry her which he did 3 months later.

324Even today Ferragamo is recognized as the visionary and his work and designs continue to inspire current Ferragamo footwear as well as other shoe designers. He is known for the introduction of the wedge heel and his most famous invention the ‘cage’ heel.  325His daughter Fiamma inherited her father’s shoe design imagination and inventiveness and she is known for having created one of the brands most iconic products the Vara Pump–the fabulous square toed chunky 3 inch heel with the grosgrain bow. The museum detailed the creation of the Vara Model,327 and the pictures here shows the various models developed in evolution to the final ‘vara’ model. It is probably the Ferragamo i most covet!!!

Today Salvatore’s children and their families still own the company and are credited with the expansion beyond luxury shoes to bags, silk accessories, watches, perfumes and clothing.

As you can see I had a fascinating and memorable day in Ferragamo’s store and museum. My curiosity led me to do more research and share the story and pictures with you. I hope you enjoyed it.319

Visitors Arrive

Two weeks have passed and the first of my guests started to arrive!!! I was so excited to begin to share the sites, sounds, smells and taste of Italy.

I have moved from Florence to Giardino Incantato, a lovely Tuscan home I found through Airbnb. It is an idyllic setting and perfect to entertain guests and leverage as a home base in Tuscany.

My Tuscan Home

My Tuscan Home

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Rachael, my daughter arrived mid week and we had an awesome day out in Florence on her first day. The weather was amazing, the sky perfect ( especially for picture taking)  and our stop for a Caffe Macchiato and Cappuccino and visits to imagethe  Mercato Centrale ensured several chances to smell and taste the wonderful Italian cuisine.

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It turns out the world is indeed very small, as walking along the River Arno we ran into a KPMG partner from Saskatoon, Canada, Tom Robinson and his partner Suzanne. It turns out he too retired and was having a tour through Italy. We shared wine and dinner and exchanged stories…. What a chance meeting???

The following day we maneuvered our way into the city centre to Stazione  Santa Maria Novellato pick up Mary Lou and Virginia who arrived by train from Rome. Perhaps at a later time I will do a blog on the challenges of driving in Italy and navigating Florence. I think I and several of my guests have several more grey hairs after our weekend driving expeditions. But we tried not to let it get in the way of our enjoyment.

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After a glass of wine in our lovely garden, we headed off the first evening to Tre Pini  http://www.ristoranteitrepini.it/Welcome.html a  restaurantnearby.. we had a lovely wine and Tuscan food…although our favorite item on the menu was the pizza we shared as a starter..pizza in italy is truly something else!!

Touring Tuscany

Saturday was dedicated to roaming the Chianti region…visits to towns, to  enotecha’s to taste and buy wine, a lunch stop to relax and drink more wine and indulge in a spectacular sharing platter.

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Our favorite town was the medieval hillside town of San Gimignano.

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San Gimignano is a small walled medieval hill town in the province of Siena, Tuscany. I remembered it as one of the prettiest Tuscan towns from an earlier trip to Italy – I have a lovely picture of its unforgettable skyline in my home… five towers in the medieval style …examples of both Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The town built from the 12th to 15th centuries is encircled by three walls and has four town squares. It is a charm to walk within and around the walls encircling the town with its amazing viewpoints into the valley below

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And of course our favorite past time was tasting and buying wine….Mary Lou and Virginia managed to find some amazing bottles of wine, typical to the region, both from the Italian grape sangiovese and the super Tuscan variety. Another blog will be dedicated to the wines we have enjoyed. image

imageWe returned to our Tuscan home and collectively prepared our ‘Italian Tuscan Thanksgiving dinner’. Bruscetta, pasta and Pollo all’arrabbiata.

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Having toured the food stalls and markets of Florence we were off to our second half of the adventure. In very short order we were transported to the hilly outskirts of Florence and entered the beautiful property of our host. A late summer garden, outdoor pizza oven, tables for eating ‘al fresco’ and an amazing kitchen space both for group cooking awaited us. The site was amazingly designed to fit the purpose.. John you would have loved it. We donned our chef aprons and were ready our Tuscan Cooking Experience

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Soon under the careful guidance of our master chef, Carmela ( I am hoping I got the name right) a woman who has been feeding her family home cooked meals, singing and dancing her way through the kitchen.. She spoke Italian— we all caught what we could from her effective full body descriptions of what we were to do—but not to worry, Elisa was on hand to translate her instructions.

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We began by preparing bruschetta….which is pronounced with a hard C not a ch sound as so many of us have come to do in North America. The fresh tomatoes, basil, garlic and bread purchased that morning were soon prepped. Bread on the outdoor pizza oven/barbecue and soon we are tasting the first results of our journey into Tuscan food.

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It was quickly established that this group loved a nice ‘vino’, both to accompany the food as well as to enhance the cooking experience and so the wine began to flow…

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Next was group prep for the ‘bolognese sauce’ –interesting very few herbs in this sauce, simply garlic, onion, celery and carrot finely chopped, hamburger meat, wine and tomato sauce. Trick of course is to let it simmer on the stove for several hours.

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While the sauce bubbled away, we received a demo in how to make pasta … really had no idea it was so easy. Shortly the whole class was making their own pasta.. Carmella demo’ed how to take pasta and turn it into all the forms of pasta we simply buy in bags at the store.. today we made tagliattelle to go along with our ‘Bolognese’. But now we knew how to make agnolotti, cannelloni, capellini fettucini, etc. It turned out making a pasta serving for one, was fun and quick..I did wonder how long one would have to work to prep Pasta for a family of 6 however…..so it is likely I will continue by pattern of buying fresh pasta at the local grocers…which here in Italy….is really good!!!!

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Pasta ready we moved outside to be joined by our second Tuscan chef. She is a pizza specialist and works in a Firenze pizzeria. She had prepped the pizza dough the previous night..apparently she preps hundreds of small pizza dough balls for her work at the pizzeria. We were paired off and set to it to create our personal pizza’s ..fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella al fiori, basil, ham, artichokes.. and of course Olive Oil to top it off. While we did not duplicate our chefs skill in pizza throwing, we successfully baked our pizzas in the 800 degree wood fired out door pizza oven..pizzas were done in a minute and 20 seconds… HOT OVEN is the trick clearly!!!! And then we ate them sitting outside taking in the stunning country side.

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So, antipasti and pizza consumed, ‘Primi’ course bubbling  (sauce)  and drying (pasta), it was time to turn our attention to the ‘secondi’ which was to be the lovely pork tenderloin we had purchased at the Mercato Centrale and the ‘contorni’ (vegetable side dish) in our case roast potatoes. The tenderloin had been cut to specifications by the butcher. The meat had been removed from the bone and then the bone section reattached with kitchen string. The bone of course adds lovely flavour but having it removed in advance eases the carving when the meat is complete. Simple herbs ( garlic, rosemary and sage ( I think) were rubbed onto the meat. The potatoes were salted ( heavily). Both of these dishes again  received a  healthy dose of olive oil, drizzled of course.. it is note worthy that this is a staple for all food prep in Italy. According to Carmela very healthy and much better than butter… I decided that olive oil must be a diet food in Italy.

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And as our roast was cooking we were given a final lesson in preparation of ‘dolce’ –as a group we prepped Tiramisu and then prepared our individual dish of same. We also collected whipped up some gelato..while all dishes here to had benefited from a liberal doses of Olive Oil… the ‘dolce’ had healthy doses of Liquor.. marsala wine in the tiramisu and amaretto in the gelato!!!!

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So having completed our lessons, all the while enjoying the chianti and the company,  we moved outside to enjoy our Tuscan dinner ‘alfresco’.

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Elisa had warned us in the morning that we would have a fulsome Tuscan meal…and indeed that was certainly the case!! A good thing none of us had dinner reservations that evening.. I doubt any of us could have consumed another bite.

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Carmela topped off the evening by awarding us all our personal Tuscan Chef School Certificates. What an awesome experience..highly recommended should you come to Florence.

Florence Food Tour

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As many of you know, Italy and Tuscany in particular is known for its love of food and great cuisine. This is very evident in its food markets and shops, big and small, which display local seasonal food to its plethora of  eateries, whether they are called trattoria, osteria, ristorante, birreria, spaghetteria, pizzeria, tavola calda, rosticcerria, café, taverna—-seriously a bewildering series of names —not sure what the difference is.. what is consistent, is a love of good food.

So with this awareness of Tuscany, I had decided to seek out a cooking class. The website offered a lot of choices…eventually I landed on a tour offered by Walkabout Tours Florence https://www.walkaboutflorence.com/ . The tour offered a food tour through old Florence followed by a cooking lesion at a nearby Tuscan Farm House.

IMG_9612What a treat this turned out to be!!!! At 10 am on a Friday morning, 15 people met at the appointed meeting place. We met Elisa, our food and tour guide. My group consisted of visitors from Perth and Sydney Australia, Hong Kong, several cities across the USA (Denver, New Jersey, Virginia, South Carolina to name just a few), ranging in age from 20 to 60+. The group was friendly and eager for a great experience and Elisa was determined to give it to us.

IMG_9630Having collected we were off, following Elisa to discover Florence’s historical food market, visit the local baker, butchers and market stalls. Knowledgeable, Elisa shared with us a great deal of  Florentine ‘food history’ , all while conversing with the local sellers as we purchased the ingredients that we would later need in our cooking class. On the journey Elisa and Frank ( one of my fellow travelers) loaded up food bags with local tomatoes, olives, mozzarella, pork loin, ground meat.

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On the way, we learned that Florence was an important city in the wool trade in the middle ages given its location on the Arno River. Florentine merchants develop the first coin the Florin and the first bills of exchange –this enabled the merchants to pay debts without transporting cash and of course extend credit—hence the establishment of a robust banking system in Florence.

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We learned that salt, used to preserve food in the days prior to refrigeration was also a ‘golden’ commodity and extremely expensive. The bread of Florence is not salted—yes it is quickly one of the things you notice, although I did not immediately twig onto that it tasted different because there is no salt in it.  There are two stories as to why. The first is that salt was so heavily taxed, the people of Florence couldn’t afford to add it to their food and started to make unsalted bread and continue to do so to this day. The second story is that in the 12th century, Florence and Pisa were rival cities. The Pisan army blocked shipments of salt reaching Florence to force a surrender to Pisa. Florentines simply eliminated salt from their cooking and did not surrender. According to Elisa, a rivalry still exists today between the Florentines and Pisans.

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IMG_9613We were introduced to the methods of selling wine in early Florence. The picture here is of Elisa telling us the history of the ‘wine tabernacle’. This small opening that you see ( most today are closed off, as the one in the picture) was just the right size for a bottle of wine to fit through. Locals would come to these small wine tabernacles- holes in the wall, and purchase their wine directly from the seller. A curious wine vending approach only found in Florence—they are called ‘tabernacle’ because they have a similar appearance to religious tabernacles also found on many a street corner. Deb a fellow traveller rather wished she could still purchase a bottle today.IMG_9614

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A final stop was to a typical Florence coffee shop for our morning coffee. We were instructed in the varying forms of Italian Coffee, espresso, caffe normale, cappuccino, machiatto, caffe correto  and so on( a latte, by the way in Italy is hot milk and has no coffee). There seems sot be a coffee drink in Italy for every time of day, need and mood. A caffe correto is drunk the morning after. It has a shot of liquor to set you to rights again..although another explanation was also given— that the Italians get up at the crack of dawn, labour in the fields and by mid morning need a shot of something in their coffee. Whatever it all seems to work. We also were advised there is no sitting with your morning coffe…the north American tradition sitting at the starbucks with your coffee and paper of computer, is NOT the way to drink coffee in Florence. And indeed I have yet to find anything resembling a starbucks type establishment.

Coffee is drunk standing up at a narrow counter, you drink it ( and as you know an espresso does not take long to consume) and you go! Coffee drinking Italian style!!

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Armed with our purchases, coffee to sustain us we departed via mini bus to our Tuscan farm house.

My next blog will take you through our cooking experience.

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